The Willamette Valley in Oregon has been getting more and more recognition over the last few years for the wines they make. As a cooler climate than most of the regions in California they have an edge from nature when growing certain grape varietals. I’ll examine two releases from Adelsheim Vineyard over the next couple of days. Somewhat appropriately I’ll look at releases that represent the 2 varietals that seem to shine the most up in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. First up I’ll look at their Willamette Valley Pinot Gris. This wine is part of their Willamette Valley Series. They also have single vineyard and reserve offerings as well as a line of what they’ve termed wacky wines.

The 2006 Adelsheim Pinot Gris had minimal oak influence. 20% of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation. More than half of the fruit for this offering was sourced in Adelsheim’s own Estate vineyards. Approximately 15,500 cases were produced and the suggested retail price is $19.

Honey Dew Melon, peach and pear are the most prominent characteristics to emerge from the nose of this wine. This Pinot Gris is soft, round and lush throughout the palate with no rough edges to speak of. It’s also layered, elegant and complex. The finish is long, spicy and persistent with white pepper notes lingering against the back of the throat for a nice long while. This wine will work incredibly well as an aperitif or welcome wine at your next event. It’ll also pair nicely with light foods, creamy cheeses or a fresh summer entrée salad.

What I like best about the Adelsheim Willamette Valley Pinot Gris is that its overriding characteristic is fresh, unadulterated fruit. This is a clean crisp wine that speaks of its fruit and place not of manipulation.

While the suggested retail price for this wine is $19, wine-searcher shows that it can commonly be found for a couple of dollars less. In either case, this is terrific wine and an excellent value.

Up Next: Adlesheim Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

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The last wine I’m looking at from Ladera at this time is also a single vineyard offering. It’s noteworthy that in addition to the Cabernets I’ve covered they make several other varietals. Considering the quality of these wines, the others are likely worth drinking as well.

The 2004 Ladera Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% varietal and all from the same vineyard. 50% of the wine was aged in new French oak for 21 months. The remainder spent time in one, two or three year old French oak barrels. 3,000 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $70.

This is a wine with a tremendously dark hue to it. Of the 3 Ladera the Howell Mountain has the most floral nose. Violet notes lead the way, accompanied by berries and cedar. From the first taste, the Howell Mountain Cabernet is chock full of dark, brooding fruit. Throughout the wines palate chocolate notes abound. Again those notes are more prominent than in the other Cabernets from Ladera. Earthiness in the long, luxurious finish is subtle but emerges nicely as the wine opens up along with spice notes. This wine has terrific acidity and a big, tight tannic structure. More so than the other Ladera Cabernets this one really needs to breathe. Match it up with a big, bold meal if you’re drinking it now.

The Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet is a big, hefty, chewy wine. It’s a delicious wine, but time in the bottle will serve it well. My recommendation would be to put a couple of these away and forget about them for 5 years or so and then enjoy for quite a few years after that. I liked each of the Ladrea wines I tasted a lot for different reasons. The Howell Mountain is likely the most age worthy. As with the other 2 it over delivers in it’s price point.

Up Next: A couple of wines from Oregon’s Adelsheim Vineyard.

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Ladera Vineyards makes two single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons in addition to the Napa Valley that I looked at already. Those three wines combined make up close to 90% of their total production. So clearly they’re committed to Cabernet Sauvignon, which is often referred to as the King of Napa. The first of the two single vineyards I’m looking at is Lone Canyon Vineyard. This is a site of close to 500 acres, 75 of them under vine. Lone Canyon is a mountain location, which borders Mount Veeder.

The Ladera 2004 Lone Canyon Vineyard Cabernet is 100% sourced from this single vineyard. The wine was aged for 22 months in 73% new French oak. 1,900 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $65.

Dark berry and a hint of eucalyptus are the first notes that emerge from this wines nose. Even with a year more bottle age than the Napa Valley Cabernet this selection is a bit reticent at first. Decanting for at least an hour is highly recommended. Once it opens up nutmeg, mocha notes and an absolute avalanche of berry fruit flavors are the story of this wines palate through to the tremendous earthy finish. This Cabernet will surely stand up to your finest steak. However, it’s also restrained and lovely enough to drink well on it’s own.

For me, single vineyard wines epitomize the concept of capturing a sense of place. They can genuinely reflect what happened in that vineyard in a given year.

What I like most about this wine is the absolute purity of fruit and excellent spice component running through it from beginning to end. There is something particularly clean and natural tasting about this offering. This is an intense, persistent, multi-layered and impeccably balanced expression of Cabernet Sauvignon.

While this wine is drinking beautifully now, I’d expect it to age gracefully for the better part of a decade, at minimum. For $65 this isn’t going to be a wine most people drink with Pizza on a Tuesday night. That said it’s an excellent choice to tuck away for a special occasion. Furthermore it’s important to note that this wine is an excellent value in its price point. There’s no shortage of Napa Cabernets in this price range, too few of them are in the Lone Canyon’s class.

Up Next: Ladera’s Howell Mountain Cabernet.

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Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the varietals that can seem ubiquitous in California. Especially in Napa, it seems, everyone has at least one Cabernet Sauvignon on their tasting list when you visit a winery. Part of this is of course because Cabernet Sauvignon generally does very well in Napa Valley. But in some cases Wineries seem to produce Cabernet Sauvignon because they feel compelled to do so to keep up with the Joneses so to speak. More often though in Napa, Cabernet Sauvignon is the main focus of quite a few Wineries. Ladera Vineyards is one such winery. They’re a family winery that pays careful attention to every step of the process. They make a couple of other varietals, but Cabernet is their focus. This week I’ll look at three distinct Cabernet Sauvignons in their portfolio. The first one up is a blend of Cabernets from each of their Estate Vineyards.

The Ladera Vineyards 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of Estate fruit from Lone Canyon Vineyard and Howell Mountain. 4% Petit Verdot was blended in. The wine spent 17 months in 47% new French oak barrels with the balance in used French Oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $39.

Berry, cedar and vanilla notes lead a tremendously inviting nose. The first sip brings out casis, blackberry and spice notes. Rich, deep mountain fruit is the hallmark of this wine and it shines throughout the palate. The mid-palate is full bodied, lush and mouth filling. This Cabernets finish has a distinct earthiness that will emerge more as the wine evolves and ages. Significant white pepper and nutmeg spice dance along the tongue and back of the throat as well. This is an elegant example of Napa Valley Cabernet.

What I liked best about this particular Cabernet Sauvignon is how inviting and open it was immediately out of the bottle. Of course decanting helps it open up and achieve an increased level of accessibility and charm, but it shines from the get go. This is a well-balanced wine that features bright fruit, good acidity and a firm tannic structure. It’s drinking well now, should evolve for 5 or 6 years and drink nicely for another handful of years after that.

When you get to the upper thirties in Napa Valley Cabernet you have quite a few choices. The Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon outclasses its price point. It easily outshines quite a few wines that have more famous names in this price range.

Up Next: Ladera Vineyards - Lone Canyon Vineyard Cabernet

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On Tuesday I had the opportunity to attend a Madeira Tasting in NYC. Over 50 wines from approximately half a dozen Madeira producers were represented. This is a fascinating and informative way to taste one category of wine side by side. While the history of Madeira is a long one, it doesn’t get as much attention from American Consumers and writers as Port often does. Hopefully with time that will change. Madeira can be just as interesting, complex and age worthy as port. Also like Port, Madeira can be made in a number of varying styles. Each producer that was represented was pouring a broad selection of Madeira.

Of the producers present several stood out for me. However none more so than Broadbent. From their Rainwater which is a Madeira meant to be consumed young through a 10 year old Malmsey and all the way to their oldest and most layered selections, The Broadbent wines were impressive across the board. A house style was evident that led me from wine to wine like a connective taste tissue. However each wine was distinctive in it’s own way. The 5 year old reserve priced in the mid $20’s struck me as the top overall bargain. However I enjoyed each one and hope to take a closer look at a couple of them in the future.

The other wine that most impressed me was the Blandy’s Terrantez 1976. Among other qualities this wine had an excellent finish that seemed to go on forever. Conversely their 1977 was one of my least favorites of the day. The Barbeito Malvasia 30 year old Special Lot Madeira was another standout for me.

At the end of the day, having tasted over 50 wines in varying styles and price ranges from $15 to $500 there is one absolute. There is plenty of excellent and diverse Madeira available. Regardless of your level of drinking sophistication, or budget, you should have no problem finding one to enjoy.

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A lot of terrific wine made from various varietals is coming out of Argentina. Malbec, however, is the varietal that Argentina is best known for. In addition to it being a large part of their production, they simply make more great Malbec than any other country. The second wine I’m looking at from Xumek is a Malbec.

The 2005 Xumek Malbec is 100% varietal and all Estate Fruit. 2,500 cases were produced. It’s finished with a natural cork closure. While the suggested retail price is in the upper teens this wine can be purchased for closer to $12.

The Xumek Malbec has a beautiful deep purple hue. The nose of this Malbec leads with plum, berry, vanilla and toasty oak notes. Mocha notes come out on the entry point, giving way to berry and white pepper spice in the mid-palate. The finish has dark chocolate and blackberry fruit notes along with pepper that tingles the back of the throat a good long while. This wine is well balanced with good acidity and will be versatile at the table.

This offering is more austere and dry than textbook Malbecs. The Xumek appears built to last longer and age more gracefully than many it’s it’s price category. This is smoother than the average Malbec and a step up in elegance and subtle layering. Well worth it’s modest price tag.

Imported by H & S Specialty Imports.

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Readers of this blog will note that I have an affinity for South American Wines. I’m particularly fascinated by those coming out of Argentina. The good ones find a crossroads between quality and value that rivals just about any wine region in the world. I’m going to look at two releases from Xumek.  Their focus is on estate grown, single vineyard wines with limited production. The first offering I’ll examine is their Syrah. Famed winemaker Michael Rolland is involved with Xumek as an external consultant.

The 2007 Xumek Syrah is 100% varietal and all Estate grown fruit. Production is limited to 2,500 cases and the suggested retail price is $18. Looking at wine-searcher though it can be found for $15.

The nose of the Xumek Syrah abounds in blackberry, vanilla and cedar notes. The first sip reveals rich, decadent chocolate covered blackberry flavors. White pepper, nutmeg, cloves and the like fill the mid-palate of this wine along with deep dark berry fruit. The finish brings out earthiness and smoke in abundance along with additional mocha notes.

Decanting this wine for an hour is recommended. The time allows this Syrah to open up wide and achieve an additional level of expression. The Xumek Syrah has a good tannic structure and well integrated oak. This wine should evolve for 3 to 5 years and drink well for a couple more after that. A teriffic expression of Syrah well worth it’s price.

Imported by H & S Specialty Imports.

Up Next: Xumek Malbec.

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In addition the the grapes Thornton Winery farms themselves they source fruit from other areas of California. One of those areas is Amador County. Located in the Sierra Foothills, Amador County is best known for Zinfandel. Many of the Zinfandel vines planted in Amador County are amongst the oldest in California. While the term “Old Vines” is often used loosely throughout California the Zinfandels emerging from Amador County, generally are truly Old Vine. The last wine I’ll be looking at this week from Thornton Winery is in fact an Amador Zinfandel.

The Thornton Winery 2005 Amador County OVOC (Old Vine, Old Clone) Zinfandel was produced from vines over 100 years old. This Zinfandel was aged for 22 months in 45% new French Oak, with the remainder in 2 year old American Oak. Production was limited to 369 Cases, making this a winery direct exclusive. The price of this wine is $44.

This Zinfandel’s nose opens with bright berry fruit and nutmeg spice on the nose. The first sip reveals that this zinfandel is tart out of the bottle and requires some time to open up and express itself. After decanting this wine reveals a lot of dark berry fruit and continued spice notes. The mid-palate brings out dust and brambly earth notes that carry through the long and persistent finish which also includes mocha, white pepper and additional berry. This is a substantial wine and will best be when paired with hearty foods that match it’s robust flavor profile.

This Thornton offering is a classically styled wine made far more in the style of traditional Zinfandels than some of the super ripe, overly jammy wines out there. That said this wine has plenty of bright, open, upfront fruit, however it never comes close to being over the top. This is a well balanced wine with good acidity, and a firm tannic structure. This Zinfandel will evolve over the next 5 or 6 years and drink well for the better part of a decade. This IS your Grandpa’s Zinfandel!

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Temecula has officially been a designated viticultural area since 1984. For most of those years Thornton Winery has been producing wine there. In addition to the 20 acres Thornton Winery itself sits on they also source some grapes from other specific parcels throughout California. The second wine from Thornton I’m looking at is a Syrah.

The Thornton Winery Temecula Valley Syrah has a suggested retail price of $24.  As with the Merlot, the alcohol level is under 14%, modest for California.

This Syrah opens with a big nose of bright berry fruit. Rhubarb, black cherry, assorted dark berry fruits and black pepper emerge immediately upon tasting this wine and carry well through the mid-palate. Well integrated oak presents itself in the form of cedar and vanilla notes throughout the palate of the wine. The finish features mocha, earth, white pepper, nutmeg and a light chicory note. The Thornton Syrah will be an excellent match for grilled meats.

What stood out to me about this wine is that it features upfront fruit that references an Australian Shiraz but also maintains the balance, earthiness and finesse of some fine Rhone offerings.

While this release is drinking tremendously well now, it’s likely to at least hold where it is for several years. This is an excellent Syrah that offers good value in its price category.

Up Next: An Amador County Zinfandel from Thornton Winery.

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Temecula Valley is another of the California Wine Regions that’s been coming on strong over the last few years. More and more consumers are aware of its existence and the fact that quality wine is emerging from this burgeoning region. Over the next few days I’ll look at three releases from Temecula’s Thornton Winery.

First founded in 1988, Thornton Winery is one of the Pioneers of high quality Temecula Valley Wine. Their initial focus was Sparkling Wine. Five years later they introduced varietal wines. Between Sparkling and Still wines they currently produce 15,000 cases annually.

Today I’m looking at the Thornton Winery 2005 Temecula Valley Merlot. This wine has a suggested retail price of $27. Alcohol is a modest 13.9%

The nose of this Merlot presents dark, juicy plum and dust. The first sips through to the mid-palate are full of black cherry fruit, spicy white pepper and subtle mocha notes. Dust and white pepper continue through to the finish, joined by brambly earth, dried cherry fruit and nutmeg spice. The wine will be an excellent match for braised short ribs, lasagna or grilled marinated flank steak.

Most impressive to me about the Thornton Merlot is the excellent varietal character it displays. This is a relatively austere red wine, which leans towards the dark fruits that are often trademarks of Merlot made in a more classic European style as this one is. This wine was a little tight and tart out of the bottle so decanting for about an hour is recommended. This Temecula Valley Merlot has present but not overwhelming oak. A firm tannic structure suggests this wine will evolve nicely for at least 2-3 years and drink well for a couple of years after that.

A well made Merlot that’s a fine example of this great varietal This is worth seeking out.

Up Next: Thornton Winery- Syrah

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