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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Archive for February, 2014

A Couple of Thoughts About Australian Wine Today

Posted by Gabe on February 23, 2014

A few weeks back I was at the Australia Today Trade Show in New York City. While there, I had the opportunity to sample a wide array of wines coming out of Australia. Most of them were current releases, in a few cases there were some older vintages being showcased during a sit down seminar. Most obvious when tasting a wide swath of Aussie releases is the diversity and breadth of the offerings. This is true both in terms of grape varietals and style of finished wines. If overripe Shiraz is your only image of Australian wine, you’re in for a stunning and pleasant surprise. There are wines of all shapes and sizes being made in Australia. Here’s a look at a couple of selections from the event that really stood out.

Running With Bulls 2012 Tempranillo – This wine from the Barossa Valley and it sells for around $17. Aromas of violets and plum leap from the effusive nose of this wine. Cherry characteristics lead a grab bag of warming red fruits and spices on the plate of the Running With Bulls Tempranillo. The finish is above average in length and persistent. Red fruits continue along with bits of earth and leather. This is a well balanced wine that will excel with hard cheeses and pretty much anything that comes off of your grill. It’s a solid example of Tempranillo that shows how adaptable this varietal can be to a region like the Barossa Valley which is so different from its more native Rioja.

St Hallett Old Block 2010 Shiraz – This Barossa Valley Shiraz sells for around $80. This Shiraz shows off a deep, dark hue that is stunning in the glass. Violets and spice lead a welcoming nose. The palate is succulent and juicy. It’s layered with black plum, black raspberry, and cassis. Minerals and earth lead a dense, structured finish that has great length and depth. Black fruits continue their prominence along with pepper and bits of dusty cocoa. This is a classic example of Shiraz; it’s loaded with bold, fruity flavor. Pair it with equally bold, full flavored foods.

Peter Lehmann 1999 Stonewell Shiraz – This Shiraz is a library selection and as such isn’t widely available anymore. However it is more than worth mentioning because it showcases the ability of Australian wines in general and Shiraz in particular to age well under the right conditions. Those conditions of course include the right vintages as well as stylistic choices made when picking grapes and producing the wine. A bit of chocolate sauce leads the nose here along with Kirsch Liqueur. The palate is studded with a seemingly endless array of cherry characteristics, both red and black. At 15 years old there are still loads of fruit here and it shows itself off in a rich, powerful way. It’s muscular and shows off earth that goes alongside the fruit, but it’s also controlled in intensity. All of these elements continue through the persistent finish. It would be a brilliant match for pasta with Wild Boar Ragu, or Pot Roast to name a couple of options.

Shadow Chaser 2012 Grenache – This Grenache is from  McLaren Vale and it sells for around $15. The fruit came from two vineyards with over 40 years of age on each. After fermentation it was aged entirely in stainless steel tanks prior to bottling. Raspberry, and strawberry aromas fill the nose of this wine. These red fruits continue through the palate where they’re joined by bits of red cherry and a copious amount of spices. Cinnamon, clove and black pepper are all in evidence. Rhubarb, sour cherries and glycerin notes all emerge in the finish which has above average length for the price category. Grenache can make some of the food friendliest wines in the world. This example certainly fits that bill. It’ll pair with a wide array foods and it’s a terrific value as well.

These wines represent a tiny window into some of the great things being done in Australia today. The breadth and variety is very impressive. There are offerings at every conceivable price point coming out of Australia that represent solid or better values. If you haven’t had any Australian wines in awhile, now is a good time to dive back in, we’re seeing greater diversity on US shelves than ever before.

Posted in Australia, Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz, Tempranillo | Leave a Comment »

Azienda Agricola Ascevi Luwa – 2012 Pinot Grigio D.O.C. Collio

Posted by Gabe on February 21, 2014

Pinot Grigio is a grape that might confuse some people. On the one hand it’s very popular. On the other hand most of the wines spiking Pinot Grigio sales in the United States are at best anonymous and at worst just horrible. The thing is, Pinot Grigio can and does produce lovely wines of distinction. This can be true in various parts of the world, but nowhere more prominently than certain parts of Northern Italy. Here’s a look at one that comes from a small family producer in Friuli.

The Azienda Agricola Ascevi Luwa 2012 Pinot Grigio D.O.C. Collio was produced entirely from fruit sourced in the namesake region. This is a hilly area of Friuli which sits near the border of Slovenia. This offering is 100% Pinot Grigio and the fruit was harvested by hand. Fermentation took place over 20 days in a temperature controlled environment. Both fermentation and aging took place in stainless steel tanks. Bottling took place after approximately 6 months. 1,500 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18.99. White flower aromas are joined by bits of Lychee fruit on the expressive nose of this 2012 Pinot Grigio. The palate is loaded with ripe, yellow delicious apple flavors. Hints of lemon zest are present as well along with a nice roundup of spices such as white pepper and a hint of vanilla bean. Tart, green apple flavors emerge on the finish along with limestone, graphite and wisps of tangerine zest. Firm acidity lends to the refreshing and crisp nature of this wine.

Pair this Pinot Grigio with entrée salads, roast chicken, pork loin, or soft cheeses to name a few options. This wine boasts excellent varietal character and plenty of charm. It stands out from the pack because it is quite clearly Pinot Grigio. If you’re tired of spending $20 plus dollars on “Pinot Grigio” that is barely identifiable as wine let alone the named grape (regardless of how famous the name of the Winery is) drink the Ascevi Luwa 2012 Pinot Grigio instead. You’ll spend less and be rewarded with a far greater wine. It’s hard to imagine they’re made using the same grape. This small production wine from a family winery is exactly what I’m looking for in Pinot Grigio. Pass up the over-priced grape juice labeled Pinot Grigio and drink Ascevi Luwa 2012 Pinot Grigio, you can thank me later.

Posted in Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Auchentoshan 18 Year is an Inspiring Scotch

Posted by Gabe on February 19, 2014

Auchentoshan is the closest distillery to the city of Glasgow. It was founded in 1823 and to this day uses the same time-honored methodology they always have. The standard range of Whisky’s includes four distinct releases. They augment that with some smaller production limited offerings as well. I have tasted each of the selections in their normal range and they maintain a connective tissue that binds them all together yet each has its own characteristics which set it apart. Here’s a look at their 18-year-old. Head over to The Daily Meal to read the rest.

Posted in Single Malt Scotch, Whiskey | Leave a Comment »

Loveblock – 2011 Pinot Noir – Central Otago – New Zealand

Posted by Gabe on February 15, 2014

For most people Sauvignon Blanc is the primary grape that comes to mind when New Zealand is mentioned. And with good reason, they produce quite a bit of it. Not to mention that they also offer a lot of stunning examples, seemingly at every imaginable price point. Pinot Noir however has been coming on strong for awhile now, and who knows, perhaps someday we’ll think of New Zealand for Pinot first. Here’s an example I just tasted that really made me sit up and take notice.

The Loveblock 2011 Pinot Noir was produced entirely from one vineyard. Someone’s Darling is a 20 acre block located above the mountains of Central Otago in New Zealand. Five clones of Pinot Noir are planted there. The vineyard is sustainably farmed and accredited as such in New Zealand (SWNZ). The grapes were machine harvested and de-stemmed. They had a 5 day cold pre-soak prior to being inoculated with yeast and undergoing fermentation. This wine most often sells for right around $30. Mushroom, leather, red cherry and bits of earth are all present on the expressive nose of this 2011 Pinot Noir. Wild Strawberry characteristics are joined by red and black cherry, along with rhubarb as well as cinnamon and black pepper on a somewhat weighty palate that is studded with appealing flavors. The finish is lingering and impressive in length with mineral notes, earth and hints of sour cherry. If you love good Pinot Noir that speaks of its origins, this wine is for you. It’s impeccably balanced and has firm, racy acidity. Loveblock 2011 Pinot Noir is delicious all by itself. However it’ll pair well with lots of food choices. Anything with mushrooms, pork dishes, and Pasta Bolognese are just a couple of options.

So while Valentine’s Day may have passed I assume we all still have time for love. If so Loveblock 2011 Pinot Noir is a good choice to keep you warm and cozy for the (hopefully) fading days of winter. Pinot Noir is a varietal I’m personally very finicky about. There are unfortunately too many examples that don’t acquit themselves very well. Sometimes they taste like almost anything but Pinot in fact. Thankfully this isn’t the case here. This is a beautiful expression of Pinot Noir that couldn’t possibly be mistaken for anything else. The fruit is a touch darker in spots than typical perhaps, but Loveblock is a delicious, well made example of Pinot Noir. It should also be mentioned that it’s being sold at a fair price when the quality and depth of this offering is taken into account. Good Pinot Noir is rarely (if ever) cheap. Here’s one that, while not cheap, is worth every penny. If you’re drinking it now, decant it for an hour or so. Otherwise it’ll hold for the next 4-5 years.

Posted in New Zealand, Pinot Noir, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Bailey’s of Glenrowan – 2012 19 Crimes Red Wine Blend

Posted by Gabe on February 11, 2014

When it comes to wines in the value category I’m looking for things that have wide appeal, easy drinkability and solid varietal character. In general I’m thinking about wines that will go over well in large gatherings, and have curb appeal. Often times I feel that blends are particularly good for these settings. Here’s an offering I just tried from Australia that hits the mark for me.

Bailey’s of Glenrowan 2012 19 Crimes Red Wine Blend was produced from fruit sourced in South Eastern Australia. This wine is a blend of Shiraz (mostly) with some Durif (Petite Sirah) added in. After fermentation this offering was aged in French oak barrels for just about 6 months. This wine most often sells for $10. Red cherry aromas dominate the generous and ebullient nose of this 2012 blend. The palate is simply stuffed with a mélange of ripe, berry-pie filling notes. Red and black raspberry, cherry and blackberry are all present and accounted for. Bits of cinnamon and black pepper spice provide a nice accompaniment to all the glorious fruit flavors. The finish, which has nice length, features cranberry, hints of sweet chocolate, and a touch of a mineral component. 19 Crimes is very tasty all by itself. That said, it will also serve as a good accompaniment to a host of casual hand foods such as burgers, pizza, ribs and the like.

Whether you’re attending a party where you want to bring a couple of bottles of wine that will win over a crowd or you’re looking for a tasty house wine to purchase a case of, 19 Crimes might be just what you’re looking for. If an easygoing red with good Shiraz character and a nice dollop of darker elements from Durif sounds appealing, grab a bottle of 19 Crimes and indulge. For around $10 the risk / reward factor is high.

Posted in Petite Sirah, Syrah/Shiraz, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Fortant 2012 Coast Select Muscat / Gilles Louvet Mon Pré Carré 2012 Marselan

Posted by Gabe on February 10, 2014

One of the associations people often have with wine is in regard to price. Some regions are well known for providing value and quality at a variety of price points. Other areas are not necessarily thought of that way by every consumer. This is often true of Old World regions which people sometimes associate with higher cost wines. The truth though is that just about every country has regions that offer good values. France for instance has numerous areas that can offer plenty of nice, value priced wines. However due to the numerous classic, higher end wines that have traditionally gotten most of the attention, people’s thoughts aren’t always tuned into the value priced selections that are also available. With that in mind here’s a look at a couple of varietal offerings that I recently tasted and enjoyed immensely.

The Fortant 2012 Coast Select Muscat was produced from fruit sourced in the Languedoc region of France. More specifically all of the vines where fruit was picked for this wine were in vineyards that see coastal influence. This offering is 100% Muscat. The fruit was picked at night and then pressed gently. It was aged for 3 months Sur Lies prior to bottling. This wine has a suggested retail price of $10.99. Aromas of Lychee and apricot fill the nose of this Muscat; underlying bits of toasted almond are present as well. Mango, nectarine and white peach lead a treasure trove of stone and tropical fruit flavors on display throughout the joyful and expressive palate. White pepper spice and a hint of clove are in play here as well. The finish which is fruity and a bit lusty shows off pineapple, bits of honey and a gentle wisp of chamomile. This French Muscat is incredibly appealing and approachable with enough depth to really keep things interesting. Sip after sip it kept beckoning me back to the glass for more. It will pair well with soft cheeses, entree salads and a broad array of lighter fare.

The Gilles Louvet Mon Pré Carré 2012 Marselan was produced entirerely from organically grown grapes. The fruit all came from the Rhone region. Marselan is a relatively new grape created in France just over 50 years ago. It’s a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. This offering is 100% Marselan. The vines in this case had 20 years of age on them at the time of harvest. Fermentation took place over 7 days in a temperature controlled environment. Aging followed in concrete tanks prior to bottling. This wine has a suggested retail price of $13.99. The nose of this offering is marked by aromas of red cherry and leather. Strawberry, spices and continued cherry characteristics make up the palate. It is simultaneously easy going, fruity, dry, spicy and a bit savory in nature. Cranberry and dusty bittersweet cocoa notes emerge on the finish which has good length for its price point. This is a medium bodied wine that will be a delight paired with cuisine styles from various parts of Europe. I paired it with a hearty Italian Lentil Stew and it was a killer match.

Both of these wines offer good bang for the buck. They feature lots of character and charm as well as easy drinkability. Each of them is primed to pair with appropriate and diverse food categories too. You don’t have to kill your wine budget to enjoy delicious, well made French wine. These two offerings prove that.

Posted in Marselan, Muscat, Wine | Leave a Comment »